• 

*  :  -      S         *   i    ' 


ALEX  A;  .3  HOTEL 


HEAR  MORE  or  HAWAII 


Hawaii  Promotion  Committee 

Representing 

The  Territory  of  Hawaii 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce 

The  Merchants'  ftssociation 

ftoaolulu,  T.tU 


HAVAI I 

Itj People 

r>  dj 


EMMA  METCALP  NAKUINA 


HONOLULU,    T.    H 
1904 


MHS.   EMMA   METCALF  NAKUISTA 


COPYRIBHT,    1904 
BY    THE 


PREFACE 

The  Hawaiian  Race  is  universally  recognized  as  foremost 
among  those  of  the  Pacific  archipelagoes,  and  there  is  much 
in  its  history  to  arouse  interest. 

With  an  unwritten  record  extending  back  1,030  years,  this 
people  appeals  to  every  student  and  observer.  Gifted  with 
an  imaginative  faculty  well  developed,  a  capacity  to  clothe 
thought  in  ornate  language,  and  adorn  recital  with  word  pic- 
ture, as  well  as  a  vocabulary  that  lends  itself  to  poetic  ex- 
pression, the  meles,  or  historical  songs,  are  virile  and  have 
the  swing  of  the  trade  wind. 

This  volume  is  intended  only  as  an  appreciation  of  the 
people  at  large;  a  chronicle  of  some  of  the  most  striking 
legends,  each  of  which  points  a  moral.  Aloha,  the  Hawaiian 
equivalent  of  affection,  love  of  friends  and  family,  patriot- 
ism and  devotion,  is  breathed  in  every  story,  and  sanctity  of 
home,  obedience  to  superiors  and  full  justice  are  the  main- 
springs of  each  legend. 

There  are  many  versions  of  these  myths,  and  those  here 
presented  are  given  by  the  author  as  the  commonly  accepted 
ones. 

Mrs.  Emma  Metcalf  Nakuina  springs  from  blood  lines 
which  touch  Plymouth  Rock,  as  well  as  midseas  islands. 
High  priests,  statesmen  and  warriors  join  hands  in  their 
descendants  with  pilgrims,  lawmakers  and  jurists.  Broad- 
ly and  liberally  educated  under  the  immediate  care  of 
her  father,  a  Harvard  man,  nephew  of  the  late  Chief  Justice 
Metcalf  of  Massachusetts,  Mrs.  Nakuina  is  fitted  to  present 
legends  which  bring  out  strongly  characteristics  of  her 
people. 

For  purposes  of  reproduction  in  magazine  or  newspaper, 
the  copyright  on  the  contents  of  this  volume  is  waived. 


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de  winds.  234;  variable  and  calm.  54;  Somberly,  33;  N.  A  N. 

W.  44. 

THE    HAWAIIAN   PEOPLE. 

:HE  Hawaiian  people,  according  to  Fornander,  is  a 
branch  of  the  Polynesian  race,  had  at  one  time 
affiliations  with  the  peoples  of  Tahiti,   Marque- 
sas, Samoa,  Fiji  and  New  Zealand,  is  descended 
from  the  great  Aryan  race,  and  was  originally 
white.     Other  theorists  have  boldly  claimed  that 
the   Hawaiians   are  descended   from  one  of  the 
lost  tribes  of  Israel,  reaching  the  mid-Pacific  through  India, 
Sumatra,  Java  and  the  South  Sea  Islands. 

The  writer,  from  knowledge  of  the  customs  of  her  an- 
cestors, is  disposed  to  accept  the  latter  theory.  It  is  rea- 
sonable to  believe,  knowing  what  we  do  of  the  peculiarities 
of  the  Israelites,  their  clinging  to  their  beliefs  and  observ- 
ances in  the  face  of  persecutions,  their  clannishness  and  ar- 
rogant assumption  of  being  God's  own  peculiar  people, 
thereby  intimating  that  the  rest  of  the  world  was  the  devil's 
own,  would  be  sure  to  arouse  antagonism  as  a  race  wherever 
they  were.  With  the  thrift  which  is  a  characteristic  of  the 
Jew  from  ancient  time,  the  survivors  of  those  that  were  dis- 
persed and  historically  lost  would  very  likely,  as  they  made 
themselves  useful  to  the  people  in  whose  lands  they  were  as 
captives  or  otherwise,  become  rich  and  comfortable.  They 
would,  as  circumstances  permitted,  naturally  gravitate  to- 
gether, and,  following  the  precept  of  their  great  ancestor 
Abraham,  choose  to  inter-marry  among  their  own  people 
as  far  as  in  them  lay. 

Unusually  beautiful  Sarahs  or  Rebekahs  very  likely  were 
often  sought  and  taken  in  marriage  by  the  powerful  and 
rich  among  whom  they  sojourned,  as  well  as  were  Josephs 
desired  by  powerful  men  as  sons-in-law,  for  their  abilities, 
thus  obtaining  a  mixed  race.  But  it  is  reasonable  to  believe 
that  the  majority  did  as  their  Jewish  brethren  have  done, 
and  kept  themselves  to  themselves.  As  they  increased  in 
^numbers  and  waxed, rich,  they  would  become  objects  of  envy 


to  the  people  around  them,  who  would  in  time  either  expel 
them  or  attempt  their  destruction,  as  did  the  Egyptians  to 
their  forefathers,  whereupon  they  would  repeat  the  history 
of  their  ancestors  and  wander  away  from  place  to  place. 

There  were  sun-worshippers  among  the  original  arrivals 
in  Hawaii,  and  there  were  two  temples  dedicated  to  the  sun 
on  Oahu — one  at  Kaneloa  (a  part  of  the  present  Kapiolani 
Park),  and  one  at  Kuaokala,  Waianae.  These  temples  were 
not  for  the  whole  population,  but  for  only  a  few  who  claimed 


C3IRUS     IN     COC< 


it  as  a  privilege,  the  rest  acknowledging  it  as  such.  These 
same  peoples  or  tribes  claimed  kindred  with  the  rest,  but 
also  claimed  this  right  to  worship  the  Sun  and  to  expose 
their  dead  to  the  elements,  in  towers  on  a  raised  platform, 
after  the  manner  of  the  Parsees  with  their  Towers  of  Silence, 
as  an  especial  privilege  acquired  by  some  of  their  ancestors 
through  marriage. 

It  is  noteworthy  that  these  customs  were  confined  to  a 
few  of  chiefly  rank,  and  were  not  claimed  or  disputed  by 
other  chiefs. 

The  aboriginal  Hawaiians  were  generally  a  tall,  hand- 
some people,  of  powerful  physique;  industrious,  cheerful, 
kindly  and  hospitable  to  a  fault.  There  were  a  few  of  short 
stature,  mostly  among  the  serfs — the  descendants  of  the  cap- 
tives acquired  in  the  course  of  their  migrations.  Intermar- 


kWAIIAN      LEI     WOMAN 

K/X  M  I 


MRS.    F".    W.    BEOKl_EY 

HAWAIIAN 
:H  AM  EH  A    I. 
DN     OF    THE     PAOIF-IO 

C.    T.    F»OI_IKAF»U 
HAWAIIAN 


riage  between  serf  and  commoner  was  frequent,  and  occa- 
sionally a  mesalliance  occurred  where  chief  or  chiefess  low- 
ered the  standard  of  progeny  by  a  union  with  a  handsome 
man  or  beautiful  woman  in  whose  veins  flowed  the  blood 
of  a  slave,  though  perhaps  very  much  diluted. 

They  had  historians,  genealogists,  bards  and  poets,  and 
all  the  concomitants  of  the  mediaeval  aristocracy  of  Europe 
or  Asia.  One  or  more  families,  in  a  tribe  or  clan,  were  gen- 
erally set  apart  as  genealogists  of  that  particular  clan,  and 
it  then  became  a  hereditary  office,  to  be  handed  down  from 
father  or  mother  to  son  or  daughter,  or,  failing  children,  to 
a  nephew  or  niece,  who  was  adopted  and  instructed  in  the 
family  genealogy  of  chief  and  clan.  The  genealogist  was  in 
every  instance  one  who  claimed  a  common  ancestor  with 
the  head  of  the  tribe,  and  thus  would  be  expected  to  feel 
a  proper  pride  in  keeping  correct  the  historical  record  of 
the  chiefly  unions,  births  and  deaths,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
better  class  of  makaainana  or  commoners. 

Chiefs  and  commoners  alike  had  to  be  trained  in  ath- 
letic exercises,  to  be  proficient  in  the  use  of  arms,  and  to 
keep  their  physical  condition  up  to  the  highest  standard,  so 
as  to  be  always  ready  to  go  to  war  at  the  behest  of  the  chiefs, 
or  to  repel  invasion  by  other  clans  or  tribes. 

They  were  an  industrious  people.  The  chiefs  always 
took  the  lead  in  any  industrial  project  so  as  to  keep  the  re- 
spect and  allegiance  of  their  people.  They  were  tillers  of 
the  soil,  with  well-known  rules  and  regulations  for  the  cul- 
tivation and  harvesting  of  every  economical  plant  known 
to  them.  Skillful  and  daring  fishermen,  with  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  habitat  and  habits  of  fishes;  the  seasons 
of  their  periodical  migrations,  spawning,  etc.;  and  they  had 
stringent  laws  and  regulations  for  the  taking  of  fish,  looking 
towards  their  preservation.  Fish  were  abundant  in  the  wa- 
ters surrounding  the  Hawaiian  Islands  in  those  days.  Alas! 
the  white  man,  with  his  alleged  superior  knowledge,  pre- 
vailed on  chief  and  commoner  to  throw  down  their  whole- 
some restrictions,  as  savoring  of  superstition,  with  the  re- 
sult that  fishes  are  very  scarce  in  Hawaiian  waters,  and  get- 


ii 


•BEATTRJCE  -TAV.I_OR  •PRI  NOE-SS   KAiu.t_Ar\M 

,HA\/VA.IIAN-ENQL.ISH  HAWAIIAN-ENGLISH 

F-_    W-     BECK  LEV 
6-fa  fT-  AK  f-~  f-t     OF"     HO  U'6  El 
HAWAII  AN. AMERICAN 

OOV.     BO.KI     AND  RICMAF5D     M  O  S  S  M  A  M 

PRINCESS     I_II_IH.A  H  AWAU  AN-AMERICAN 

^rom   English  Painting,    1823 


ting  more  and  more  so  every  year.  The  tabu  of  the  Hau, 
which  meant  the  close  season  for  shore  fishing,  to  allow  the 
amaama  (mullet)  and  kindred  fishes  to  breed  and  spawn 
undisturbed  for  six  months,  is  no  longer  kept. 

They  were  builders  of  beautifully  proportioned  and  fine- 
ly modeled  canoes — from  the  narrow  light  waa  kialoa  for  a 
single  fisherman,  to  the  large  peleleus,  war  and  traveling 
canoes,  single  or  double,  of  the  chiefs,  sixty  to  a  hundred, 
and  even  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  with  a  depth  of 
from  six  to  twelve  and  fifteen  feet.  I  remember  a  pair  ot 
double  canoes  on  my  father's  plantation  that  were  over 
eighty  feet  in  length.  One  had  been  broken  in  a  storm 
through  the  unskillful  handling  of  a  foreigner.  The  unbro- 
ken mate  was  used  singly,  as  a  lighter  to  carry  sugar  from 
the  plantation  to  schooners  or  steamers. 

The  chiefs — that  is,  the  aristocracy — and  the  commoners 
were  generally  of  powerful  physique.  It  is  related  of  the 
First  Kamehameha,  that  in  battle  he  frequently  took  hold  of 


FISHERMEN     I_A  U  ISJO  H  I  IS1  O    THEIR    C/VMOE. 
13 


an  opponent,  and,  lifting  him  high  over  his  head,  would 
break  him  in  half.  This  feat,  to  be  sure,  was  not  a  very 
common  one  with  the  chiefs,  and  was  peculiar  to  the  Great 
Kamehameha,  who  very  likely  only  indulged  in  it  when 
such  an  act  would  be  witnessed  by  and  make  its  due  im- 
pression on  skillful  warriors,  who  admired  skill  and  strength 
united  with  personal  bravery  above  all  things,  and  whose 
allegiance  and  fidelity  to  himself  he  made  secure  in  that 
manner.  But  all  foreigners  of  observation  who  came  to  the 
islands  in  the  early  and  middle  part  of  the  last  century  agree 
that  the  Hawaiians  were  a  strong,  athletic  race. 

The  change  of  habits  and  food,  the  compulsory  clothing 
to  come  up  to  the  white  man's  standard  of  civilization,  and 
not  least,  the  introduction  of  many  new  and  formerly  un- 
known diseases,  with  the  vices  of  the  white  man,  the  negro, 
the  Chinese  and  the  Japanese,  added  to  his  own  rather  light 
and  natural  sins,  have  played  havoc  in  too  many  instances 
with  the  splendid  physique  that  was  the  Hawaiian's  inher- 
itance. The  curse  of  drink  in  many  cases  transmits  an  en- 
feebled vitality  to  the  children,  and  this,  with  ignorance  ot 
the  ordinary  rules  of  health  under  the  present  altered  cir- 
cumstances, very  often  causes  a  common  cold  to  develop 
into  a  dangerous  illness,  when  the  ordinary  foreigner  would 
scarcely  be  inconvenienced  by  it. 

The  Hawaiian  is  hospitable.  It  is  part  of  his  creed,  in- 
stilled into  him  for  generations.  The  one  supreme  obliga- 
tion of  good  manners  with  him  is  to  invite  whoever  passes 
his  door  or  approaches  within  speaking  distance  of  him 
when  he  is  eating,  to  partake  of  his  food.  , 

There  were  professional  story-tellers,  relating  tales  of 
war  or  love,  as  well  as  legends,  in  which  human  beings 
were  mixed  up  with  supernatural  ones,  who  at  will  took  on 
human  form,  very  much  as  in  the  Grecian  mythologie>, 
wherein  Jupiter  and  Venus  take  on  human  form  to  indulge 
in  love  escapades  with  humanity. 

Should  any  of  these  story-tellers  be  possessed  of  a  good 
voice  for  chanting  the  meles  or  songs  that  were  an  invaria- 
ble accompaniment  to  any  story  or  legend  of  any  conse- 


SURF"    BOATING    AND    f=t  I  D  I  M  <3    AT    WAIKIKI 


quence,   he    would   be    doubly    welcome    wherever    he   should 
choose  to  visit. 

These   professional   raconteurs    generally   roamed     from 
place  to  place,  unless  they  became  attached  as  story-teller  to 
the  court  of  some  powerful -chief,  when  they  might  not  wan- 
der to  other  tribes  or  peoples  without  explicit  permission. 
Every   nook,   cliff,   valley   or   plain,   as  well   as   strip    ot 

coast,  headland  or 
stretch  of  water, 
had  its  story  or 
legend  formerly, 
and  was  noted  for 
some  heroic  deed 
either  performed 
by  a  hero  or  hero- 
ine of  long  ago,  or 
was  perhaps  the 
scene  of  the  hap- 
less loves  of  some 
unfortunate  youth 
or  maiden.  Lack- 
ing these,  they 
were  peopled  by 
strange,  superna- 
tural beings,  who . 
took  on  human 
form  at  will  and 
exercised  great 
power  for  weal  or 
woe  over  the  hu- 
man  inhabitants  of 
that  locality. 


H  AWAI  I  AIM    WOMAN     IN     NATIV 

16 


THE    GREAT    BATTLE    OF   NUUANU. 

IRST  in  interest  for  scenic  beauty  and  grandeur  on 
the  island  of  Oahu  is  the  celebrated  Pali  of  Nuu- 
aml-  This  was  formerly  only  a  slight  cleft  or 
fissure  near  the  top  in  the  face  of  an  almost  per- 
pendicular  mountain  range,  forming  the  backbone 
of  the  island  and  dividing  it  into  two  habitable 
portions,  the  .  windward  and  the  leeward — the 
Kona  and  Koolau  sides,  as  they  are  locally  known.  There  was 
formerly  only  a  very  slight  and  dangerous  trail  over  the  face  of 
this  precipitous  mountain  pass,  and  whoever  ventured  over  it 
took  his  life  in  his  hands.  The  trail  could  only  be  traveled 
single  file,  slowly  and  with  exceeding  care,  for  the  breaking 
of  a  twig,  or  the  crumbling  of  a  small  rocky  projection  form- 


ing  a  foothold,  might  send  the  traveler  tumbling  down  the 
precipice  to  certain  death.  There  is  now  a  wide  and  beauti- 
ful carriage  road  leading  down  to  the  Koolau  side,  and  un- 
less one  stands  on  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  now  safely 
railed  in  with  strong  iron  guards  and  stanchions,  one  can 
hardly  realize  this  was  the  scene  of  the  terrible  slaughter 
that  took  place  over  a  hundred  years  ago. 

In  the  year  1795  Kamehameha  the  First,  King  of  Ha- 
waii, in  pursuance  of  his  policy  of  uniting  the  whole  Ha- 
waiian group  under  his  sway,  came  with  an  immense  army 
to  Oahu  to  make  war  against  Kalanikupule,  king  of  Maui 
and  Oahu,  and  son  of  Kahekili,  the  famous  warrior  king  of 
Maui.  Tradition,  acknowledged  by  the  later  Kamehamehas 
as  authentic,  always  gave  Kahekili  as  the  father  of  Kameha- 
meha I.  Thus  Kamehameha,  in  making  war  on  Kalaniku- 
pule, was  contending  against  his  own  half-brother.  It  has 
been  claimed  by  Kamehameha's  adherents  that  he  was  justi- 
fied in  seeking  for  the  sovereignty  in  any  way,  even  at  the 
"spear's  point,"  as  was  the  saying  in  those  days,  for  their 
father  Kahekili, ^-wearied  out  by  the  continual  struggle  for 
supremacy  with  his  famous  son  Kamehameha,  had  proposed 
to  Kameeiamoku  and  Kamanawa,  his  elder  twin  half-broth- 
ers, who  were  also  the  foster  parents  by  his  own  request  of 
that  son,  that  the  latter  leave  him  in  peace  for  the  rest  of  his 
days,  and  at  his  (Kahekili's)  death,  come  after  his  (Kame- 
hameha's) own. 

Kamehameha  landed  at  Waikiki,  the  now  favorite  sea- 
side resort,  his  immense  fleet  of  canoes  occupying  the  beach 
from  Waikiki  to  Waialae,  to  the  windward  of  Diamond 
Head. 

Immediately  on  disembarking  the  army  was  formed  in 
line  of  battle  and  marched  to  Nuuanu  Valley  to  meet  Ka- 
lanikupule. Several  running  engagements  took  place  "be- 
tween the  opposing  forces,  commencing  at  the  opening  ot 
the  valley  on  the  Ewa  side  of  Punchbowl  (Puowaina),  then 
again  at  about  the  present  cemetery  sites,  and  around  where 
the  royal  mausoleum  stands.  Finally  the  hostile  forces  met 
in  a  pitched  battle  at  Puiwa,  about  two  miles  from  the  sea. 

18 


THE     LAST    STAND 

SA/HERE    THE    BATTLE    WAS    FOUGHT 
CLIFF'S     BOUND    THE    VALLEY 


The  army  of  Kamehameha  gradually  gained  the  advantage, 
and  the  forces  of  the  Oahuan  king  were  pushed  further  and 
further  up  the  valley. 

They  tried  to  make  a  stand  at  Luakaha  and  at  Kania- 
kapupu,  the  hill  above,  but  were  defeated  by  the  superior 
forces  under  Kamehameha,  and  fleeing  up  the  valley,  were 
pursued  and  driven  over  the  precipitous  pali,  thousands  there 
meeting  death.  The  victory  was  so  complete  that  not  one 
of  the  Oahu  army  that  got  into  the  upper  part  of  the  valley 
escaped. 

A  young  chiefess,  the  daughter  of  the  high  priest  Kana- 
loauoo,  whose  residence  was  on  Punchbowl  crater,  and  who 
was  connected  with  the  Hawaii  chiefs  by  the  father's  side, 
but  whose  mother  was  one  of  the  tabu  princesses  of  Kuka- 
niloko,  the  famous  cradle  of  Oahuan  royalty,  called  her  first- 
born son  Kaheananui,  in  mournful  remembrance  of  the  great 
heap  of  the  slain  Oahuans  composed  either  of  those  who 
were  driven  and  fell  over  the  pali,  or  of  the  slain  or  wounded 
in  battle  who  were  hurled  over  the  cliff  by  the  victorious 
Hawaiians. 

The  flower  of  the  Oahu  aristocracy  perished  in  this  bat- 
tle, as  well  as  the  commoners,  and  the  young  chiefess  re- 
ferred to,  though  a  mere  child,  was  compelled  by  the  victo- 
rious Kamehameha  to  be  married  to  one  of  his  generals, 
Nahili,  whom  he  appointed  to  govern  the  conquered  island 
on  his  return  to  Hawaii.  Of  course  there  was  nothing  but 

20 


unquestioning  obedience  to  the  expressed  wish  of  the  con- 
queror, but  she  displayed  her  fidelity  to  her  slaughtered  kin- 
dred and  people  by  calling  her  first-born,  son  of  Kameha- 
meha's  own  general  and  regent,  Kaheananui  (the  great  heap 
of  the  slain). 

It  is  related  that  Kamehameha,  on  hearing  of  this  covert 
act  of  feminine  defiance,  only  smiled  indulgently  and  ap- 
proved of  her  fidelity  to  the  memories  of  the  dead.  Perhaps 
the  fact  that  she  was  the  descendant  of  a  long  and  celebrated 
line  of  high  priests,  as  well  as  of  the  tabu  princesses  of  Ku- 
kaniloko  on  the  mother's  side,  and  was  a  powerful  factor  in 
keeping  the  Oahuans  quiescent  under  the  rather  severe  rules 
of  her  grim  warrior  husband,  predisposed  Kamehameha  to 
overlook  a  tacit  act  of  defiance,  that,  according  to  Hawaiian 
aristocratic  usage,  should  have  been  punished  by  the  death 
of  mother  and  child.  To  this  indulgence  I  owe  much,  as 
the  chiefess  Kalanikupaulakea  was  the  great  grandmother  of 
the  writer. 


AVENUE    OF"    I  RON  WOODS. 
21 


PELE,   GODDESS  OF  VOLCANOS. 

NE  of  the  versions  of  this  famous  legend,  makes 
Pele  the  daughter  of  .Namakaokahai  and  the 
god  Kane;  in  another,  Namakaokahai  is  Pele's 
elder  sister.  They  were  fire  goddesses  who 
could,  and  often  aid,  take  on  human  form  at 
will,  and  contract  marriages  with  human  beings. 
Their  original  habitat  was  Ilao-o-Mehani, 
somewhere  about  the  setting  sun  from  here  and  about  in  a  line 
with  Java  or  the  Philippines,  probably  Krakatoa.  Namakaoka- 
hai was  a  very  beautiful  woman  in  her  human  form,  and 
was  the  wife  of  the  prince  of  the  country  where  the  volcano 
in  which  she  held  court  was  situated.  But  Pele  her  next 
younger  sister  was  even  more  beautiful  and  the  princely 
husband  of  the  elder  sister  fell  in  love  with  Pele.  Namaka- 
okahai became  jealous  and  demanded  of  their  father,  the 
god  Kane  and  of  their  mother  the  Fire,  the  expulsion  of 
Pele.  This  was  granted  by  the  god,  in  the  interest  ot 


22 


UOOKINQ     Ul  (=>    WAIFMO    VAUUEY. 

peace,  as  most  human  fathers  of  a  large  family  would 
and  this  particular  family  of  Kane  was  very  large,  number- 
ing ten  daughters  beside  the  eldest  and  as  many,  if  not  more, 
sons. 

Pele  must  have  been  the  favorite  child  of  the  divine 
pair,  because  all  the  nine  younger  girls  were  named  Hiiaka 
and  were  subservient  to  her,  as  were  also  the  dozen  or  more 
brothers,  except  her  twin  brother  Kamohoalii.  All  the  other 
brothers  were  called  Kane,  as  Kane-hekili,  Kane  in  the  thun- 
der, Kane-wawahilani,  Heaven  breaking  Kane,  etc. 

It  is  believed  the  father  god  gave  Pele  especial  powers 
over  those  god  'and  goddess  sisters  and  brothers  as  com- 
pensation for  his  having  ingloriously  given  in  to  the  de- 
mands of  his  jealous  eldest  daughter.  Anyhow,  whatever 
the  reason,  Pele  was  at  the  head  of  the  expedition  that  left 
the  mother  country  to  seek  a  new  home  beyond  the  sea. 
Dragons,  gnomes,  serpents  and  sharks  were  ordered  to  go 
in  Pele's  train  as  servants  and  messengers  or  couriers. 

2J 


VALLEY 


It  is  related  that,  having  traveled  a  long  way  by  sea, 
they  came  to  a  low,  small  island  to  the  northwest,  now  called 
Nihoa.  Her  youngest  sister  and  especial  pet,  Hiiaka-i-ka- 
poli-o-Pele  (Hiiaka  in  Pele's  heart),  was  tired  out,  and  be- 
sought her  eldest  sister  to  rest  here  a  while.  Pele  consented, 
and  immediately  set  to  work  to  build  herself  a  volcano 
house.  She  had  not  worked  long  when  she  gave  up  in  dis- 
gust at  the  encroachments  of  the  sea,  and  moved  on  succes- 
sively to  Kaula,  Niihau  and  Kauai.  Lehua  was  only  a  side 
issue,  and  originally  formed  part  of  Niihau.  She  found  the 
climate,  soil  or  surroundings  of  Kauai  more  to  her  taste,  and 
made  a  comparatively  long  stay  on  Waialeale,  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Kauai. 

But  the  migratory  habit  or  instinct  must  have  become 
fully  developed,  and  she  left  Kauai  for  Oahu,  where  she  suc- 
cessively held  court  at  Waianae,  Moanalua,  Puowaina  (now 
known  as  Punchbowl),  Leahi  (now  known  as  Diamond 
Head),  and  at  Koko.  Being  so  near  Molokai,  it  was  not 

24 


long  before  she  left  Koko  Head  for  Maunaloa,  on  the  north- 
west half  of  Molokai.  From  here  as  a  permanent  court  she 
opened  up  temporary  residences  at  Kauhako,  Kalaupapa,  and 
also  at  Kawela,  one  possibly  a  sort  of  summer  retreat  and  the 
other  a  seaside  residence. 

After  a  while  she  found  Molokai  too  small  for  her  large 
family,  and  moved  to  the  larger  island  of  Mam.  Here  she 
first  took  up  her  residence  on  West  Maui,  and  built  up  what 
is  now  known  as  the  Lihau  mountain,  with  an  occasional 
excursion  to  Lanai,  Kahoolawe  and  Molokini.  After  she 
had  everything  comfortable  and  the  fires  in  good  working  or- 
der, she  left  the  most  of  her  family  in  charge  of  West  Maui 
and  moved  on  to  the  eastern  portion  of  the  island. 

On  East  Maui  she  found  conditions  more  to  her  liking, 
and,  in  company  with  some  of  her  relatives,  set  to  work  and 
built  up  the  beautiful  round  cupola  of  Haleakala  (the  House 
of  the  Sun).  Here  she  lived  and  worked  for  ages,  until  dis- 
gusted by  the  dissensions  and  wrangles  between  those  mem- 
bers of  her  family  whom  she  had  left  in  charge  of  the  Lihau 
fires.  They  had  allowed  the  fire  to  get  beyond  their  control, 
which  resulted  in  an  eruption  that  destroyed  all  the  beauties 
and  comforts  of  that  home,  so  Pele  left  Maui  for  good,  and 
took  up  her  residence  on  the  slopes  of  Mauna  Loa,  on  Ha- 


PELE    AND   JLOHIATJ. 

OMETIME  after  Pele  had  become  domiciled  in 
Kilauea,  on  Hawaii,  she  made  up  her  mind  to 
pay  a  visit  to  former  home  on  Kauai. 

ohe  took  one  of  her  two  human  forms — that 
of  the  most  beautiful  woman  in  the  world — 
and  had  herself  conveyed  to  the  shores  of  Kauai 
by  some  means  known  only  to  herself,  and 
there  went  up  into  the  mountain  of  Waialeale.  While 
she  was  there  her  rest  was  disturbed  by  the  tumtum  of  a 
drum  out  on  the  plain  of  Haena.  She  went  down  and  found 
that  it  was  a  drum  being  beaten  to  keep  time  for 
Lohiau,  a  prince  of  Kauai,  who  was  dancing  the  hula 
olapa.  She  had  a  desire  to  take  part  in  the  gaities, 
so  when  Lohiau  chanted  the  refrain  of  a  song  of  his 
own  composition,  in  the  pauses  between  the  dancing,  she 
took  up  the  stanza  when  he  stopped  to  take  breath,  and 
taking  the  words  as  they  were  formed  in  his  mind,  sang  the 
song,  keeping  accurate  time  and  giving  the  appropriate  ges- 
tures with  each  word.  Lohiau  was  surprised,  pleased,  then 

26 


enchanted  with  the  beautiful  singer.  When  the  song  ended 
he  went  up  to  the  handsome  stranger  and  invited  her  into 
the  royal  enclosure,  offering  her  refreshments  and  food.  Af- 
ter a  very  short  courtship  they  were  married.  After  living 
happily  with  him  for  some  time,  Pele  informed  Lohiau  that 
she  would  have  to  return  to  her  home,  as  she  had  some  very 
important  duties  to  perform. 

While  she  was  enjoying  her  prolonged  honeymoon,  the 
fires  of  the  volcano  had  been  allowed  to  die  down  until  there 
was  just  a  little  spark  left  in  the  very  innermost  recess  of 
Halemaumau  (the  sooty  house).  She  had  never  revealed  to 
her  husband  that  she  was  the  Goddess  Pele,  though  he  in- 
stinctively felt  that  she  was  something  more  than  an  ordinary 
mortal;  but  he  was  content  to  love  and  be  loved  by  the  most 
beautiful  woman  he  had  ever  seen,  and  could  not  bring  him- 
self to  consent  to  a  separation,  even  if  only  for  a  short  time, 
as  she  kept  assuring  him.  One  day  she  disappeared,  when, 
or  how,  no  one  could  tell. 

Lohiau  caused  the  whole  population  of  Kauai  to  turn  out 
and  search  for  his  wife,  and  after  many  months  of  weary 
waiting  he  became  convinced  that  she  had  died;  that  probably 
she  had  been  eaten  up  by  sharks,  as  that  seemed  the  only 
way  in  which  she  could  so  entirely  disappear.  Thus  believ- 
ing, he  pined  away,  refusing  all  food  or  drink. 

When  Pele  had  succeeded  in  restoring  the  fires  of  the 
volcano  to  their  wonted  activity,  and  had  pacified  or  regu- 
lated her  turbulent  brothers,  admonished  her  sisters  and  com- 
mended the  youngest,  her  pet  and  loved  one,  for  her  faithful 
endeavors  to  keep  alive  the  fires  that  were  but  offspring 
brought  from  their  mother  fire  from  Kukulu-o-Kahiki,  she 
had  time  to  turn  a  backward  glance  to  the  faithful  husband 
she  had  deserted  on  Kauai. 

She  perceived  that  Lohiau  was  at  the  point  of  death, 
and,  filled  with  sorrow  and  love  for  the  handsome  mortal 
whose  entire  love  she  had  won,  she  called  her  little  sister 
Hiiaka-i-ka-poli-o-Pele,  and  telling  her  of  Lohiau  and  of  his 
dying  condition,  requested  her  to  go  to  Kauai  and  bring  the 
prince  to  Kilauea. 

27 


Hiiaka's  human  form  was  that  of  an  extremely  beautiful 
maiden  just  verging  upon  womanhood,  whose  beauty  was 
second  only  to  that  of  Pele  herself. 

Being  the  pet  of  the  dread  sovereign  of  the  volcano,  or 
possibly  on  account  of  her  youth,  she  had  been  allowed  a 
good  deal  more  liberty  and  freedom  -of  action  than  the  rest 
of  the  gods  and  goddesses.  She  was  very  fond  of  humanity, 
and  assumed  as  often,  and  kept  as  long  as  she  could,  her  hu- 
man form.  She  had  many  human  friends,  and  was  on  par- 
ticularly cordial  terms  with  her  own  devotees,  frequently 
joining  in  the  songs,  dances  and  feasts  celebrated  in  her 
own  honor. 

She  had  three  very  dear,  bosom  friends  (aikane)  that  she 
loved  above  all  beings  except  her  august  sister.  One — Hopoe 
— was  a  famous  hula  girl,  who  danced  at  the  religious  cele- 
brations in  honor  of  Pele  and  her  brothers  and  sisters.  The 
others — Paupalai  and  Wahineotnao — were  semi-divine  beings, 
the  offspring  of  some  of  the  volcano  gods  who  had  taken 
human  form,  and  beautiful  women  who  happened  to  capture 
their  fancy. 

Hiiaka  went  to  the  Lae-o-Kumukahi  where  Hopoe  dwelt, 
and  spent  a  day  in  the  sport  of  surf-riding  with  her  friend. 
At  dusk  she  told  her  of  the  mission  on  which  she  was  to  go, 
and  earnestly  besought  her  not  to  marry  during  her  (Hii- 
aka's) absence,  as  she  wanted  to  find  her  friend  unchanged 
upon  her  return.  She  was  enjoined  to  be  faithful  in  the  ob- 
servance of  all  religious  exercises,  and  to  think  very  often  ot 
Hiiaka,  as  thereby  she  would  be  strengthening  the  goddess 
during  her  long  and  perilous  journey. 

Hiiaka  took  Paupalai  and  Wahineomao  to  be  her  com- 
panions and  attendants  on  her  journey.  These  two  had  the 
advantage  of  being  able  to  render  themselves  invisible  to  or- 
dinary mortals  when  Hiiaka  so  desired,  and  therefore  in 
some  respects  were  more  desirable  traveling  companions  than 
Hopoe. 

Hiiaka  had  to  travel  in  human  form,  subject  to  the  con- 
ditions of  all  mortals,  and  to  the  dangers  and  fatigues  at- 
tendant on  such  a  long  journey  by  land  and  sea.  Many  peril- 

28 


FISHERMEN    WITH    CASTING     NETS. 


ous  and  exciting  adventures  befell  her  "before  she  reached 
Haena,  the  home  of  Lohiau. 

When  she  arrived  at  Haena  she  found  Lohiau  had  been 
dead  for  an  anahulu  (a  fortnight),  and  that  his  body  had  been 
put  in  the  puoa,  or  Tower  of  Silence,  and  was  being  faithfully 
guarded  by  relays  of  devoted  attendants  day  and  night.  She 
waited  until  midnight,  then  praying  to  her  father  Kane  for 
help,  she  caused  a  deep  sleep  to  descend  on  the  guards,  and 
entering  with  her  two  attendants,  they  carried  the  body  ot 
Lohiau  to  the  cave  called  Ka-wai-a-ka-palae,  and  there  per- 
formed the  rite  of  the  kakelekele  over  the  body.  Just  before 
dawn  they  returned  it  to  the  puoa.  The  attendants,  on  awak- 
ening at  dawn  from  their  deep  sleep,  and  hastening  guiltily 
to  look  at  the  body  of  their  beloved  chief,  to  assure  them- 
selves that  no  one  had  committed  desecration  by  stealing  a 
limb  to  use  the  bones  to  make  fish  hooks,  were  amazed  to 
find  all  appearance  of  decomposition  gone,  and  that  Lohiau 
lay  as  if  in  a  natural  sleep. 

The  next  night  Hiiaka  went  through  the  same  perform- 
ance, and  the  attendants  on  awakening  found  the  body  of 
Lohiau  still  more  lifelike. 

They  consulted  the  high  priest,  but  as  he  was  himself  in 
retreat,  he  could  not  come  to  the  polluted  puoa,  but  advised 
them  to  use  every  effort  to  keep  awake,  assuring  them  of  his 
belief  that  a  miracle  was  being  performed,  and,  he  suspected, 
through  the  agency  of  Lohiau's  unnaturally  beautiful  wife, 
who  had  so  strangely  disappeared.  The  high  priest  cut  short 
his  own  religious  observances  and  declaring  himself  noa, 
joined  the  watchers  on  the  fourth  night. 

Hiiaka  as  usual  cast  her  sleeping  spell  over  the  attendants, 
but  could  not  prevail  against  the  high  priest,  who  belonged 
to  the  cult  of  Kane,  her  own  father's  worshippers.  So  on 
entering  as  usual  for  the  body  of  her  sister's  husband,  she 
was  confrpnted  by  the  high  priest.  She  explained  everything 
to  him,  and  assuring  him  that  only  the  fact  of  his  being  en- 
gaged in  the  observance  of  the  worship  and  duties  due  to  her 
father  prevented  her  from  calling  on  him  for  assistance.  She 
then  pressed  him  into  service  and  together  they  all  bore  the 

30 


o  isj  THE:  SHORES  OF"  PEARL.  HARBOR. 

body  to  the  cave.  Here  the  last  kakelekele  was  performed, 
and  the  purification,  internal  and  external,  being  complete,  Hii- 
aka  calling  on  Kane,  her  father,  the  source  of  all  life,  breathed 
into  Lohiau's  nostrils  four  times  and  he  was  restored  to  life. 
But  he  was  still  very  weak  from  the  long  fasting  he  had 
undergone  and  he  had  to  be  carefully  fed  and  nursed. 

The  attendants  bore  him  secretly  to  the  high  priest's  house 
and  Paupalai  was  sent  by  Hiiaka  at  dawn  to  gather  the  dew 
from  awa  leaves  into  a  gourd,  for  a  drink  for  the  resusci- 
tated man,  and  Wahineomao  was  directed  to  gather  ulei  and 
mamaki  berries  from  the  mountain  ravines.  The  juices  of 
these,  pressed  through  cocoanut  fibres,  were  the  only  food 
given  him  at  first,  with  the  dew  for  drink.  After  some  days, 
Paupalai  was  sent  to  the  naele  o  Aipo  to  get  the  kalo  poni-a- 
Kanaloa  and  the  luau  Lauloa-a-Kane  to  make  luau  and  kalo 
pulehu  (roasted  taro)  for  a  more  substantial  diet.  An  anahulu 
afterwards  he  expressed  a  desire  for  some  oopu-peke-o-Hana- 
kapiai.  These  were  procured  and  when  he  had  made  a  meal  of 
these  and  poi,  his  cure  was  pronounced  complete,  and  he 
showed  himself  to  his  faithful  subjects. 

The  rejoicing  throughout  the  island  was  great,  and  many 
feasts  were  given  and  attended  by  Lohiau  and  Hiiaka,  whom 
the  populace  knew  only  as  the  sister  of  their  beautiful  prin- 
cess who  had  so  mysteriously  disappeared.  The  high  priest, 
by  order  of  Hiiaka,  was  given  the  credit  for  the  miraculous 
restoration  to  life. 

After  a  month  of  feasting,  games  and  sports  of  all  kinds, 

.11 


Lohiau  bade  good  bye  to  Kauai,  telling  his  people  he  was 
going  to  meet  and  bring  back  his  wife,  and  started  for  Oahu 
in  a  pair  of  double  canoes,  beautifully  decorated,  and  attended 
by  a  small  fleet  of  canoes,  containing  his  attendants  and  pro- 
visions, also  presents  for  the  loved  wife  and  the  new  rela- 
tives, whose  acquaintance  he  expected  to  make 

They  were  royally  received  and  treated  on  the  different 
islands  which  they  touched  on  their  wray  to  Hawaii.  Of  ne- 
cessity the  many  attentions  Lohiau  and. the  beautiful  princess 
received,  took  up  a  good  deal  of  time.  These  civilities  were 
from  the  highest  chiefs  and  might  not  be  lightly  refused  by 
Lchiau.  ruler  of  an  island  subject  to  invasion,  and  expecting 


OR  A  1 
Kl  I 


MO 
WEO 


to  come  back  from  Hawaii  some  time  in  the  near  future  with 
his  wife.  So  like  a  prudent  husband  and  ruler  he  was  not 
going  to  make  enemies  by  disregarding  or  not  giving  proper 
time  and  attention  to  the  hulas,  surf  riding,  maika,  and  nu- 
merous other  games  given  in  his  honor. 

The  journey  consumed  many  months  and  his  dread  wife 
began  to  be  restive,  indignant,  suspicious  and  finally  jealous 
of  the  travelling  pair.  She  believed  her  sister  could  have  hur- 
ried back  to  the  volcano,  bringing  the  husband  that  Pele 
dearly  loved,  despite  her  desertion.  When  the  pair  arrived  at 
Makea,  in  Hilo-pali-ku,  the  anger  of  Pele  could  no  longer 
be  restrained,  and  incensed  as  she  was  with  her  formerly 


favorite  sister,,  she  was  provoked  that  Hopoe  (Hiiaka's  ai- 
kane)  continually  chanted  the  praises  of  Hiiaka.  Hopoe  had 
composed  many  songs  in  honor  of  her  beloved  goddess  friend, 
and  spent  much  time  in  practicing  new  steps,  movements  and 
gestures  for  them,  to  be  used  at  a  grand  feast  when  Hiiaka 
returned.  In  her  enthusiasm  to  prove  to  Hiiaka  how  entirely 
she  had  complied  with  the  Litter's  request  to  remember  and 
think  of  her,  she  had  in  a  measure  somewhat  neglected  the 
customary  dances  in  honor  of  the  older  goddess.  Pele,  in  her 
jealousy,  seizing  this  as  an  excuse  for  destroying  this  one, 
loved  of  her  sister,  suddenly  appeared  af  Kumukahi  and 
changed  Hopoe  to  stone,  all  the  priests  and  attendants  devoted 
to  the  worship  of  Hiiaka  being  treated  likewise.  Hopoe  had 
just  gone  to  have  a  sea  bath,  and  such  was  the  vindictiveness 
of  the  jealous  goddess,  that  when  she  changed  the  unfortu- 
nate young  woman  to  stone,  she  had  her  affixed  permanentb' 
to  a  stone  base,  but  so  nicely  adjusted  on  what  appeared  to 
be  a  natural  pivot  that  with  every  movement  of  the  waves 
the  body  rose  and  fell  or  swayed  as  if  in  the  graceful  undu- 
lations of  the  hula. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  belated  travellers  at  Kukuilauania,  a 
mile  beyond  Afakea,  Hiiaka  saw  the  smoke  of  the  destruction 
of  Kumukahi.  Her  heart  misgave  her,  and  projecting  her 
spirit  to  the  scene,  she  saw,  and  understood,  the  cause  of  her 
sister's  work  of  destruction.  This  took  only  a  moment  of 
time  as  she  stood  by  the  side  of  Lohiau  and  gazed  at  the 
fire  and  smoke  ascending  from  Puna. 

When  her  spirit  returned  to  her  body,  she  broke  out  in  a 
wail  for  her  dear  playmate  and  companion  in  many  a  long 
day  of  surf  riding,  surf  canoeing  and  hulas.  She  there  and 
then  poured  out  her  sorrow  in  a  song  of  great  beiuty  and 
pathos  that  has  been  the  standard  of  perfection  for  Hawaiian 
poetic  compositions  ever  since.  Tn  it,  she  recounted  their  days 
of  companionshin  from  Hopoe's  earliest  childhood;  their  sim- 
ple pleasures  and  the  sylvan  beauties  around  the  scenes  of 
their  childhood  wanderings  and  sports;  the  dangers,  excite 
ments  and  pleasures  of  surf  riding  and  canoeing  shared  to- 
gether; the  ardor  and  fidelity  of  the  young  maiden  in  learning 

34 


BURIAL    CAVES    AT     H  A  EEl  N  A 

the  dances  in  honor  of  and  to  be  performed  in  the  worship 
of  Pele;  Hiiaka's  sorrow  at  being  compelled  to  leave  her  and 
all  that  made  life  pleasant,  to  obey  the  mandate  of  her  sister 
to  go  after  the  deserted  husband  and  the  fidelity  with  which 
she  had  executed  the  order,  in  the  face  of  great  obstacles; 
the  purity  of  her  heart  and  mind  towards  her  sister's  hus- 
band; the  long,  wearisome  and  dangerous  journey  almost 
completed,  and  now,  her  reward,  on  the  very  threshold  of 
their  dominions,  to  witness  the  destruction  of  the  one  dearer 
to  her  than  any  other. 

Lohiau  listened  to  the  song  in  amazement,  and  for  the  first 

35 


MCJAUOUO 


time  a  realization  of  the  dread  nature  of  his  wife  came  to 
him.  He  was  also  filled  with  a  great  pity  and  compassion 
for  the  young  and  sorrowing  girl  who  had  been  the  means  of 
restoring  him  to  life,  and  what  was  of  more  consequence  to 
him,  was  taking  him  to  that  wife  so  dearly  loved  that  life 
without  her  had  become  unendurable.  When  Hiiaka  ceased 
her  chant,  she  turned  to  Lohiau  and  deliberately  kissed  him, 
at  the  same  time  telling  him  it  was  the  kiss  of  death.  Lohiau 
returned  the  kiss,  embracing  her  warmly  in  what  was  to  him 
a  purely  fraternal  manner. 

Hiiaka  informed  him  he  was  to  continue  his  journey  to  his 
wife's  home  under  the  guidance  of  Wahineomao  and  Paupa- 
lai,  as  she  had  to  leave  him  to  go  to  mourn  the  death  of 
Hopoe  and  all  the  priests  devoted  to  her  cult.  Leaving  him 
instantly  with  that  farewell  kiss,  she  hastened  in  her  proper 
form  to  Puna  and  commanded  her  sister  to  cease  her  horrid 
work,  as  she  had  made  destruction  enough.  She  ordered  her 
to  go  back  to  her  home  at  Kilauea  and  there  give  befitting 
greetings  to  the  husband  for  whose  sake  she  (Hiiaka)  had 
to  undergo  so  much,  to  be  rewarded  by  the  destruction  of  all 
she  held  dear  amongst  humanity,  and  was  obeyed. 

In  due  time,  Lohiau  arrived  at  the  edge  of  the  crater  of 
Kilauea,  and  chanting  a  salute  to  Pele,  awaited  the  answer. 
The  only  answer  was  for  her  to  order  her  brothers  to  set  him 
on  fire  from  the  feet  upwards,  but  for  them  to  endow  him 
with  added  hold  upon  life,  that  he  might  thus  endure  greater 
agonies. 

This  spiteful  order  was  carried  out,  some  of  Pele's  attend- 
ants in  the  meantime  accusing  the  unfortunate  man  of  his 
supposed  infidelity  with  Hiiaka.  Lohiau  warmly  denied  the 
imputation  and  reciting  the  story  of  his  search,  grief  and 
death  for  Pele,  ended  by  saying  he  could  but  die,  but  with 
his  last  breath  and  while  consciousness  lasted  he  would  still 
love  Pele  and  would  so  proclaim  to  them.  Kane,  from  whom 
all  life  emanated,  he  declared  would  be  his  judge.  This  ref- 
erence to  their  father  convinced  Pele's  brothers  of  Lohiau's 
purity,  and  they  begged  of  their  sister  to  stop  her  persecu- 
tion. Pele  ordered  them  to  go  on,  and  they  flatly  refused, 

37 


WITH     SPEAR 


telling  her  to  kill  her  lover  herself  if  she  was  so  blinded  by 
her  insane  jealousy  as  to  be  unable  to  perceive  the  truth  of 
what  he  was  affirming. 

She  then  ordered  her  sisters  to  perform  the  terrible  deed, 
sending  them  to  him  one  by  one,  as  each  would  retire,  filled 
with  pity  and  compassion  for  the  faithful,  loving  heart  burn- 
ing to  death  to  satisfy  the  unreasoning  hate  of  a  jealous  god- 
dess, just  as  if  she  was  only  an  ordinary  woman. 

Each  applied  a  touch  of  fire  and  then  retired  to  unite  their 
entreaties  to  those  of  the  brothers.  But  Pele  was  deaf  to  all 
their  entreaties,  wishing  and  hoping  Hiiaka-i-ka-poli-o-Pele 
would  also  intercede.  When  there  was  but  a  little  spsrk  of 
life  left  in  Lohiau,  the  elder  sisters,  realizing  Pele's  desire  for 
the  former  favorite  sister  to  humble  herself,  hied  themselves  to 
Kumukahi,  where  Hiiaka  mourned  her  dead,  and  besought  her 
to  come  and  save  the  life  of  her  companion  in  the  long  jour- 
ney from  Kauai.  The  answer  was  characteristic :  "No,  I  will 
not.  Convinced  now  of  the  absurdity  of  her  suspicions,  she 
would  like  an  excuse  to  restore  her  lover;  but  what  of  my 
loved  ones?  What  of  my  faithful  and  devoted  priests?  She 
will  not  restore  them.  Who  will  there  be  now  to  pay  devo- 
tions to  me,  so  as  to  supply  me  with  strength  to  do  my  duty 
to  humanity?  Pele  was  always  jealous  of  my  mortal  friends, 
while  I  willingly  assisted  her  to  what  should  have  been  a 
full  realization  of  a  happy  married  life  during  the  natural  du- 
ration of  that  man's  life.  Let  him  die.  She  loves  him  yet,  and 
so  she  will  mourn  for  her  loved  one  while  I  mourn  for  mine." 
And  so  Lohiau  died. 

It  is  asserted  that  Pele,  realizing  her  folly  and  cruelty  to 
both  husband  and  sister,  took  an  oath  that  never  more  would 
she  dally  in  love  with  mortal.  And  it  is  furthermore  told 
that,  overcome  with  remorse,  the  great  Goddess  humbled  her- 
self to  her  petted  younger  sister,  asserting  that  in  taking  up 
the  human  form  she  became  subject  and  liable  to  all  the 
frailties  and  weaknesses  of  humanity.  The  sisters  were  rec- 
onciled and  there  and  then  made  a  solemn  vow  that  they 
would  in  the  future  have  no  more  intimate  relation  with  mor- 
tals than  as  divinities  and  devoteees. 


39 


r 


THE  VALLEY  OF  RAINBOWS. 


AHALAOPUNA  was  the  daughter  of  the  chief 
of  the  district  that  included  the  beautiful  Ma- 
noa  Valley  within  its  boundaries.  These  boun- 
daries were  varied  from  time  to  time  at  the 
pleasure  of  the  reigning  monarchs  or  through 
the  exigencies  of  war.  She  had  been  betrothed 
from  childhood  by  her  parents  to  the  young 
chief  Kauhimahu,  commonly  called  Kauhi,  son  of  the  chief 
of  Waimanalo,  Kailua,  Kaneohe  and  Heeia.  As  the  future 
bride  of  the  son  of  such  an  important  chief,  the  father- 
in-law  prospective  demanded  that  the  child  be  brought  up 
in  the  strictest  seclusion,  seeing  the  face  of  no  man  but 
her  own  immediate  relatives  and  attendants,  until  she  was 
married  to  his  son. 

This  was  agreed  to  by  Kahalaopuna's  parents,  the  child 
even  then  giving  promise  of  the  rare  beauty  for  which  she 
was  afterwards  celebrated. 

As  she  grew  up  the  radiance  emanating  from  her  beau- 
tiful person  was  such  that  it  cast  a  roseate  glow  in  the  air 
around  her.  With  all  her  beauty,  she  showed  such  a  spirit 
of  humility  and  obedience  to  her  parents  and  guardians,  and 
of  love  and  consideration  for  her  attendants,  that  the  staid 
old  gods  Kane  and  Kanaloa  themselves  fell  in  love  with  her, 
and  sent  the  rainbow  to  play  continuously  around  her  home 


as  a  sign  to  all  people  that  there  dwelt  one  who  was  espe- 
cially favored  of  the  gods.  Her  attendants  and  relatives  were 
so  proud  of  her  beauty  that  they  were  continually  singing 
her  praises,  and  countless  meles  or  chants  were  composed 
in  her  honor  by  enthusiastic  retainers. 

Kahalaopuna  is  the  first  beauty  of  Manoa  mentioned  in 
history  or  legend  or  song,  and  was  the  precursor  of  a  long 
line,  until  the  valley  became  commonly  known  as  the  valley 
of  beauties,  "Ka  ui  o  Manoa." 

Two  men,  mountaineers,  dwelling  on  their  little  patri- 
monies with  few  retainers,  in  the  eastern  corner  of  Manoa 
Valley,  called  respectively  Kumauna  and  Keawaawakiihelei, 
listened  to  the  chanting  of  the  songs  and  the  praises  of  the 
lovely  princess  of  Manoa,  until  they  conceived  a  wild  and 
passionate  love  for  the  beautiful,  although  unseen,  maiden. 

They  knew  there  was  not  the  slightest  hope  of  either 
possessing  the  object  of  their  fondest  desires,  as  one  was 
disfigured  by  a  humped  back,  and  the  other,  although  pos- 
sessing a  tall,  finely  proportioned  figure,  had  one  eye  injured 
in  childhood,  the  lower  eyelid  being  turned  in  such  a  way  as 
to  display  the  inner  red  membrane.  This  condition  of  the 
eye  is  called  by  the  natives  maka-helei,  and  is  considered  a 
more  hopeless  bar  to  love  response  from  the  opposite  sex 
than  any  other  form  of  personal  disfigurement. 

These  men  were  great  friends,  and  confided  to  each  oth- 
er their  passion  for  Kahalaopuna.  They  determined  that  if 
they  could  never  possess  her,  at  least  they  could  pretend  to 
the  world  that  each  had  at  different  times  been  favored  witn 
her  love.  They  went  about  bragging  of  the  conquest  each 
had  made  of  the  famous  Manoa  beauty,  until  their  story 
eventually  came  to  the  ears  of  Kauhi,  to  whom  she  was  be- 
trothed. His  was  a  very  suspicious  nature,  and  he  believed 
the  wicked  story.  He  was  deeply  wounded  to  think  that  his 
promised  bride,  brought  up  with  such  care  and  in  seclusion, 
and  the  fame  of  whose  beauty  had  gone  throughout  the 
group,  should  so  demean  herself  as  to  hold  any  intercourse 
whatever  with  those  two  disfigured  men,  let  alone  grant 
them  the  favor  of  her  love.  The  blow  to  his  pride  and  van- 

42 


ity  was  so  great  that  he  determined  that  nothing  but  her 
death  would  wipe  out  the  disgrace.  Accordingly,  unknown 
to  either  his  own  or  her  parents,  he  came  over  the  pali  of 
Kailua  accompanied  by  the  old  kukini  cr  runner,  whom  he 
had  always  employed  as  a  messenger  to  carry  messages  or 
presents  to  his  fiancee,  and  therefore  was  well  known  to  her, 
as  well  as  to  her  immediate  attendants. 

He  arrived  at  her  home  in  due  time,  made  himself  known 
and  demanded  that  she  go  with  him  immediately  to  his 
home  across  the  mountains.  Kahalaopuna,  knowing  she  had 
been  affianced  to  him  from  early  childhood,  obediently  fol- 
lowed him.  He  sent  her  attendants  the  round-about  but 
usually  traveled  route  by  way  of  Punchbowl  Hill,  while 
he  took  Kahalaopuna  on  a  trail  across  the  mountains  be- 
tween Manoa  and  Nuuanu  Valley  that  would  eventually 
bring  them  out  at  Kaniakapupu  above  Luakaha.  They 
crossed  over  the  Manoa  streams,  and  went  up  the  slopes  ot 
Aihualamaiki  adjoining  Kahaumakaawe.  This  slope  was 
formerly  covered  by  a  grove  of  Koa  and  Lama  trees. 

Near  a  large  rock  half  way  up  the  slope,  Kauhi  killed 
the  girl  by  a  blow  on  the  head  with  a  bunch  of  hala  nut§ 
which  he  was  carrying,  ostensibly  to  make  leis  for  her.  This 
bunch  of  hala  had  been  sent  as  a  token  of  love  to  the  young 
chiefess  by  the  venerable  high  priest  of  Kaualaa,  and  came 
from  the  sacred  groves  on  the  windward  of  the  heiau  (tem- 
ple) of  that  name.  Tradition  has  it  that  the  gods  were  so 
shocked  at  the  murderous  use  to  which  their  sacred  hala  had 
been  put  that  they  cursed  the  trees,  and  the  splendid  and 
lovely  grove  of  Hala,  Kukui,  and  Wiliwili  of  Kaualaa  and 
Mahinauli  died  in  a  single  night. 

After  Kauhi  had  killed  the  beautiful  maiden  he  covered 
her  body  with  the  leaves  of  the  Akolea,  a  coarse  species  of 
fern,  and  kept  on  his  way,  climbing  the  mountain  in  the 
northern  corner  of  Manoa.  Half  way  up  the  mountain  he 
heard  the  voice  of  Kahalaopuna  crying  to  him  and  chanting 
a  song,  wherein  she  beseeched  him  to  test  her  fidelity  before 
believing  anything  against  her.  An  owl  god  which  was  her 
deity  had  seen  the  murder  committed,  and  brushing  the  cov- 
ering of  leaves  aside,  had  kissed  her  wounds  and  made  them 

44 


whole,  and  breathing  into  her  nostrils,  had  restored  her  to 
life. 

The  girl,  strong  in  her  knowledge  of  her  innocence  and 
purity,  would  not  let  her  affianced  go  with  such  a  mistaken 
opinion  of  her,  and  kept  calling  to  him  in  her  song  to  prove 
her  fidelity. 

Kauhi  pretended  to  believe  her,  and  called  her  to  come 
to  him,  and  together  they  went  up  the  mountain  side.  But 
after  a  while  his  anger  overcame  his  love,  and  he  killed  her 
again. 

It  was  the  belief  of  the  mountaineers  of  the  olden  time 
that  the  spirit  of  the  murderer  Kauhi  haunted  the  trail  be- 
tween Manoa  and  Nuuanu,  and  that  often  maile  and  fern 
gatherers  were  startled  by  a  faint  and  mournfully  sweet  song 
chanted  by  the  spirit  of  Kahalaopuna,  and  the  answering  de- 
spairing wail  of  Kauhi,  "O,  my  wife,  come  back  to  me!  1 
was  Wrong!"  "E  ku'u  wahine-e,  hoi  ma-i.  Ua  hewa  wa-u." 

In  the  eastern  corner  of  Manoa  Valley  can  be  seen  the 
peak  of  Kumauna,  with  a  hump  on  the  back  of  the  ridge 
leading  up  to  the  peak,  and  alongside  of  it  the  ravine  of 
Keawawa-Kiihelei.  These  places  belonged  to  and  are  called 
after  the  two  wicked  men  who  were  the  cause  of  the  sad 
death  of  Kahalaopuna. 

And  when  the  gods  realized  that  their  favored  maiden 
had  been  murdered,  they  decreed  that  the  rains  should  fall 
daily  about  the  valley  of  beauty,  their  tears  in  memory  ot 
her  grriecs. 


COAST 


LEGEND     OF    KALIUWAA. 

N  THE  windward  or  Koolau  side  of  Oahu,  about 
twenty-eight  miles  from  Honolulu,  is  the  beauti- 
ful little  valley  of  Kaliuwaa,  the  some  time  borne 
of  the  Hog  God,  Kamapuaa,  and  the  scene  of 
many  adventures.  On  the  side  of  the  ravine  is  a 
hollowed  out  depression  in  the  form  of  a  canoe. 
It  is  said  this  was  formed  by  the  pressure  of 
the  god's  body  after  he  had  told  all  his  family,  retainers 
and  all,  to  mount  his  back  with  their  goods  that  he  might 
deliver  them  from  the  soldiers  of  Olopana,  King  of  Koolau. 
The  hog-god  was  very  mischievous,  and  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  stealing  the  poultry  belonging  to  the  king,  eat- 
ing all  he  wanted  and  carrying  the  rest  home  to  his  fam- 
ily. He  had  also  devastated  the  potato  and  kalo  planta- 
tions, and  thus  had  stirred  up  against  him  the  enmity  not 
only  of  the  king,  but  of  all  those  who  directly  or  indirectly 
subsisted  on  the  king's  bounty. 

When  the  army  of  Olopana  was  perceived  turning 
mountainwards  from  the  beach  at  Kaluanui,  Kamapuaa  was 
asleep  beside  a  large  rock  very  near  the  house  of  his  grand- 
mother, Kamaunuaniho.  The  advance  guard  of  the  king's  army 
arrived  at  the  little  settlement  that  was  Kamaunuaniho's  patri- 
mony, and  began  running  in  and  out  of  every  house  search- 
ing for  the  fowl  thief,  who  just  before  detection  had  changed 
to  his  ordinary  human  form.  On  arriving  at  home  Kama- 

46 


puaa  had  resumed  his  hog  form.  The  search  was  for  some 
time  unsuccessful,  but  two  men  who  were  up  on  the  ridge 
above  the  house  shouted  down  to  the  searchers:  "There  he 
is,  right  by  that  big  rock !  We  saw  him  lie  down  there  a 
little  while  ago  on  his  arrival  on  a  dead  run,  while  we  could 
see  you  people  far  behind  chasing  him.  We  have  been 
watching  ever  since,  and  have  not  seen  him  get  up  or  go 
away."  The  people  looked  and  finally  shouted  up,  "There 
is  no  human  being  here!  Only  a  large  fat  hog!"  "That  is 
the  one,"  they  answered  back,  ''That  is  Kamaunuaniho's  pig, 
and  he  must  have  been  the  thief." 

These  loud  words  shouted  back  and  forth  aroused  the 
hog,  and,  grunting,  he  stood  up  and  looked  stupidly  at  the 
people  surrounding  him.  The  latter  were  pleased  to  find  so 
large  and  fat  a  hog,  and  tying  a  rope  around  his  neck,  led 
him  down  towards  the  main  body  of  the  army  with  the  in- 
tention of  presenting  their  prize  to  the  king.  They  made 
many  remarks  on  the  way  down  of  the  feast  that  they  antici- 
pated would  be  given,  with  their  fat  prize  as  its  main  feat- 
ure. 

Kamapuaa  went  down  the  valley  tamely  enough  until  he 
came  up  with  the  main  army,  which  was  still  some  distance 
away  from  his  home,  so  as  to  spare  his  grandmother,  in  a 
measure,  from  the  scene  of  violence  and  carnage  that  was  to 
ensue. 

When  he  had  arrived  at  what  he  judged  was  a  proper 
distance,  he  suddenly  turned  and  tore  his  captors  to  pieces. 
His  body  swelled  visibly,  and  his  hide  roughened  and  tough- 
ened, his  bristles  becoming  hard  and  stiff  as  so  many  spikes. 
The  spears  hurled  against  him  by  the  well-trained  soldiers  of 
Olopana  rolled  off  his  sides  as  if  they  were  so  many  flowers 
being  pelted  upon  a  returning  hero.  He  bit,  struck  down 
and  tore  open  the  soldiers  of  Olopana,  and  in  a  very  short 
time  had  wiped  out  the  larger  portion  of  the  army,  the  king 
with  a  few  men  seeking  safety  in  ignominious  flight. 

Kamapuaa,  after  routing  the  enemy,  sought  out  his  be- 
loved grandmother,  who,  with  her  few  trembling  retainers, 
had  fled  into  the  upper  part  of  Kaliuwaa  Valley,  as  far  as  the 

43 


lower  falls,  and  were  anxiously  awaiting  trie  outcome  of  the 
strange  conflict  between  trained  human  fighters  and  her 
supernatural  grandson,  who  had  been  the  original  mischief- 
maker,  and  must  now  be  her  protector. 

He  told  his  grandmother  that  he  was  going  to  take  them 
up  on  the  upland  above  Kaliuwaa  Valley,  as  Olopana  would 
undoubtedly  gather  another  army  and  come  again,  and  he 
wanted  his  grandmother  and  her  people  to  be  in  a  place  oi 
safety,  so  he  would  be  free  to  act  as  it  seemed  best  to  him. 

Kamaunuaniho  agreed  to  do  exactly  as  the  hog-god  told 
her.  The  hog  then  pressed  his  back  against  the  perpendicu- 
lar face  of  the  rocky  defile,  and  his  body  began  to  enlarge 
and  elongate,  until  his  hind  feet  rested  on  the  ground  at  the 
base  of  the  cliff,  and  his  head  rested  on  top  of  the  table  land 
above  the  ravine.  Kamaunuaniho  made  her  servants  go  up 
first  with  all  their  household  utensils  and  necessities,  they 
climbing  up  by  holding  onto  the  hairs.  When  they  were  all 
up  he  reduced  his  size,  and  then  made  his  grandmother  sit 
astride  his  neck,  whereupon  he  gently  arose  on  his  hind  legs 
and  elongated  his  body  until  she  could  step  off  from  his  neck 
on  to  the  high  land.  The  two  remarkable  trough-like  de- 
pressions on  the  face  of  the  precipitous  mountain  side  are  the 
marks  of  the  erosion  caused  by  the  pressure  of  the  hog- 
god's  body  when  saving  his  people.  They  are  called  waas 
(canoes)  by  the  Hawaiians,  and  gave  the  name  to  the  valley 
from  their  fancied  resemblance  to  two  immense  canoes 
standing  on  end. 

It  is  related  that  after  Kamaunuaniho  and  her  people  had 
time  to  look  around,  after  finding  themselves  in  a  place  ot 
comparative  safety,  they  perceived  that  the  two  men  who 
had  given  information  to  Olopana's  soldiers  from  the  moun- 
tain ridge  as  to  Kamapuaa's  whereabouts,  were  still  in  the 
same  positions  and  attitudes  as  when  they  shouted  down 
their  directions  earlier  in  the  day.  On  investigation  it  was 
found  they  had  been  turned  into  stone,  and  there  they  re- 
main to  the  present  day,  a  warning  to  busy-bodies  for  all 
time. 

Kamapuaa  subsequently  conquered  most  of  the  island 

50 


of  Oahu,  and,  installing  his  grandmother  as  queen,  took  her 
to  Puuokapolei,  the  lesser  of  the  two  hillocks  forming  the 
southeastern  spur  of  the  Waianae  mountain  range,  and  made 
her  establish  her  court  there.  This  was  to  compel  the  people 
who  were  to  pay  tribute  to  bring  all  the  necessities  of  life 
from  a  distance,  to  show  his  absolute  power  over  all. 

Puuokapolei  is  some  little  distance  from  Sisal,  towards 
Waianae,  and  is  as  desolate  a  spot  as  could  be  picked  out  on 
the  whole  island.  It  is  almost  equally  distant  from  the  sea, 
from  which  came  the  fish  supplies;  from  the  taro  and  potato 
patches  of  Ewa,  and  from  the  mountain  ravines  containing 
the  banana  and  sugar  cane  plantations. 

A  very  short  time  ago  the  foundations  of  Kamaunuani- 
ho's  house  could  still  be  seen  at  Puuokapolei;  also  the  re- 
mains of  the  stone  wall  surrounding  her  home.     It  has  even 
been  said  that  her  grave  could  then  be  identified,  but  since 
the  extension  of  cane 
and  sisal  planting  'to 
the  base  of  Puuoka- 
polei,   it    is    possible 
that  the   stones  may 
have    been    removed 
for    wall -making. 


AUONO  THE  WAIAUUA  STREAM 


AND  A  PROPHECY. 


AIMEA  VALLEY  is  the  spot  where  Lieutenant 
Hergest,  of  the  "Deadalus,"  of  Vancouver's  Ex- 
pedition, was  murdered  by  the  natives.  It  was 
i  a  beautiful  valley,  the  banks  of  the  stream  well 
I  cultivated,  and  sustaining  a  very  considerable 
population.  The  ravages  of  floods  caused  by  the 
denudation  of  the  forest  on  the  surrounding  up- 
lands have  destroy- 
ed the  most  of  the 
fertile  lands,  ren- 
dering the  banks  of 
what  was  once  a 
very  beautiful 
stream,  rocky  and 
barren.  It  was  fam- 
ous among  Hawai- 
ians  as  the  country 
residence  of  Kao- 
pulupulu,  the  fa- 
mous high  priest, 
prophet  as  well  as 
the  Prime  Minister 
of  the  Oahu  king, 
Kahahana. 

It  was  here  that 
his  family  usually 
lived,  and  that  he 
was  wont  to  retire 
for  relaxation  from 
his  duties  as  high 
priest,  prime  minis- 
ter and  chief  coun- 
cillor in  state  af- 
fairs. He  was  here 
when  he  saw  and 
heard,  by  means  of 

52 


his  wonderful  powers  of  second  sight,  corresponding,  it  is  sup- 
posed to  our  modern  telepathy,  the  kings  Kahekili  of  Maui  and 
Kahahana,  his  own  sovereign,  plotting  to  get  rid  of  him.  As 
soon  as  orders  were  given  by  Kahahana,  at  Waikiki  to  send  a 
picked  corps  of  soldiers  to  kill  Kaopulupulu  at  Waimea,  the 
latter,  though  more  than  fifty  miles  away,  heard  it;  and  rec- 
ognizing the  futility  of  resisting  the  combined  authority  and 
enmity  of  the  two  kings,  ordered  a  feast  prepared  immedi- 
ately. When  ready,  he  partook  of  it  with  all  his  family  and 
retainers  as  a  farewell  supper.  When  the  meal  had  been  en- 
joyed, he  acquainted  his  people  with  the  fate  in  store  for  him 
and  advised  a  quiet  submission  to  the  powers  that  be,  to 
avoid  useless  loss  of  life.  His  own  family — that  is,  his  wife 
and  children — he  ordered  to  accompany  him  over  the  moun- 
tains to  Waianae  so  that  none  of  their  dependents  would  be 
involved  in  the  slaughter  that  he  knew  would  result.  The 
people  of  Waianae  were  dependents  of  another  chief,  conse- 
quently would  be  regarded  as  neutrals  by  the  king's  party. 

Kaopulupulu  and  family  were  pursued  by  the  king's  sol- 
diers and  overtaken  at  Waianae.  They  were  immediately  set 
upon,  and  he,  wounded  unto  death,  called  to  his  eldest  son, 
who  was  bravely  fighting  against  overwhelming  odds,  "I  nui 
ke  aho  a  moe  i  ke  kai,  no  ke  kai  ka  hoi  ua  aina."  Freely 
translated,  "Be  strong  and  strive  to  get  to  the  sea,  and  die  in 
the  sea,  when  the  land  will  then  belong  to  the  sea."  The  son 
did  succeed  in  fighting  his  way  to  the  sea,  which  he  entered 


COAST   OF"   WA-IAMAE: 


until  the  water  was  up  to  his  armpits,  before  he  died  of  his 
numerous  wounds. 

Kaopulupulu's  call  and  advice  to  his  son  has  been  re- 
garded and  accepted  by  all  Hawaiians  in  the  nature  of  a 
prophecy,  presaging  the  utter  extinction  of  Oahu's  autono- 
my as  an  independent  kingdom.  Some  believe  that  the  ef- 
fects of  the  prophecy  will  go  on  forever,  and  that  whoever 
will  exercise  sovereignty  on  Oahu  will  eventually  be  super- 
seded by  some  power  from  over  the  seas.  So  far,  since  1783, 
a  hundred  and  twenty  years  ago,  four  changes  of  govern- 
ment, or  rather  of  the  personnel  of  the  governing  people, 
have  occurred,  and  always  in  the  line  of  advent  from  over  the 
sea. 

First  after  the  death  of  Kaopulupulu,  Kahekili,  King  of 
Maui,  and  uncle  to  Kahahana,  waged  war  against  him,  de- 
feated him  and  had  him  put  to  death,  when  Oahu  then  be- 
came tributary  and  an  appanage  of  the  kingdom  of  Maui. 

After  Kahekili's  death,  Kamehameha  came  from  Hawaii 
and  waged  war  on  Kahekili's  son  and  successor,  defeated 
him  in  the  bloody  and  decisive  battle  of  Nuuanu,  elsewhere 
related,  and  the  sovereignty  went  further  beyond  the  sea  to 
the  Kamehamehas,  kings  of  Hawaii. 

After  the  Kamehameha  line  became  extinct,  the  white 
people  from  over  the  sea  seized  the  sovereignty  and  insti- 
tuted our  late  Provisional  Government  and  succeeding  Re- 
public. 

The  United  States,  a  power  from  far  beyond  the  sea, 
needed  Oahu,  and  she,  with  the  successive  powers  that  had 
from  time  to  time  annexed  her  to  them,  was  now  annexed 
by  one  from  way,  way  beyond  the  sea.  Did  a  vision  of  all 
these  happenings  flash  on  the  sight  of  the  remarkable  old 
seer  of  a  hundred  years  ago?  And  was  this  all?  Or  were 
there  more  scenes,  as  yet  unenacted,  when  mayhap  the  exi- 
gencies of  circumstances  may  cause  the  United  States  to  give 
or  abandon  us  to  the  Northern  Bear,  or  to  some  great  Asiatic 
power  that  may  yet  arise? 


54 


KAU.LU.LAAU    AND    LANAI. 

|AKAALANEO,  King  of  Maui,  has  always  been 
famed  in  Hawaiian  traditions  as  the  first  king 
of  that  island  who  gave  his  attention  to  agricul- 
ture and  the  promotion  of  all  the  domestic  and 
peaceful  arts,  and  his  reign  has  always  heen 
looked  upon  as  the  golden  age  of  Maui's  king- 
dom. 

He  it  was  who  planted  Lahaina,  formerly  known  as 
Lele,  with  ulu  trees 
(breadfruit),  and  the 
place  became  famous 
in  story  and  song  as 
the  "Malu  ulu  o 
Lele."  "The  shady 
breadfruit  grove  of 
Lele."  As  the  place 
is  situated  at  the  base 
of  and  leeward  of  the 
Lihau  range  of  moun- 
tains, where  very  lit- 
tle rain  falls,  and  is 
more  or  less  shut  off 
from  the  cooling  in- 
fluence of  the  pre- 
vailing trade  winds, 
one  who  is  a  kama- 
lina  can  fully  appre- 
ciate the  cool,  grate- 
ful memories  evoked 
by  the  mere  mention 
of  the  "Malu  ulu  o 
Lele." 

Breadfruit  was  a 
very  important  arti- 
cle of  diet  among  the 
ancient  Hawaiians, 
and  when  in  season, 
chiefs  and  common- 


55 


moners  alike  abandoned  the  use  of  taro  poi  for  breadfruit 
poi,  claiming  that  such  a  change  of  diet  was  beneficial  on 
account  of  its  alterative  effect  on  the  system. 

In  the  days  of  Kakaalaneo,  breadfruit  trees  were  a  very 
valuable  possession,  and  to  plant  one  was  a  meritorious  act, 
worthy  of  commendation  by  one's  superior.  To  plant  a  grove, 
even  if  only  a  small  one,  was  an  act  worthy  of  the  gods,  en- 
titling the  planter  to  the  grateful  remembrance  of  posterity, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  compose  and  sing  songs  of  praise  in  his 
or  her  honor.  It  was  the  same  if  the  grove  was  a  cocoanut 
one;  and  conversely,  to  cut  and  destroy  one  tree,  either 
breadfruit  or  cocoanut,  merited  death.  To  destroy  many  was 
a  declaration  of  war,  and  a  war  of  extermination  at  that,  to 
distinguish  it  from  a  war  entered  into  for  honor,  glory  or 
profit. 

To  return  to  the  subject  of  our  story,  Kaululaau.  lie 
was  the  son  of  Kakaalaneo  and  his  queen,  Kanikaniaula,  who 
was  the  first  maker  of  an  Ahuula,  the  famous  netted  feather 
capes  and  cloaks  of  these  islands.  Kaululaau  should  have 
been  the  heir  apparent  to  the  kingdom,  but  he  was  so  wild 
and  eccentric  that  his  father  declared  he  had  forfeited  his 
rights,  and  banished  him  to  Lanai,  which  at  that  time  was 
inhabited  by  a  race  of  ogres,  gnomes  or  goblins. 

The  prince,  then  only  ten  years  old,  was  stronger  than 
many  a  full-grown  man,  but  had  in  most  respects  the  intel- 
lect and  desires  of  a  child  of  his  age.  He  slipped  out  night 
after  night,  after  every  one  was  asleep,  and  wrenched  out 
trees,  roots  and  all,  from  a  certain  space  he  wanted  to  clear 
for  a  playground,  so  he  could  indulge  in  the  pastime  of  ke'a 
pua — The  throwing  or  slinging  of  sugar  cane  blossom  arrows 
— unobstructed  by  the  branches  of  the  trees. 

The  king,  chiefs  and  people  were  very  much  incensed 
at  the  destruction  of  the  trees,  and  a  watch  was  set  to  find 
out  what  unnatural  monster  was  doing  such  a  wanton  act, 
depriving  people  of  the  abundant  staff  of  life  their  industry 
and  the  favor  of  the  gods  had  provided.  When  it  was  found 
to  be  his  own  son,  the  king,  with  a  prudent  regard  for  the 
anger  of  his  people,  added  to  his  own  indignation  and  sor- 

56 


row  at  the  destruction  of  his  favorite  trees,  had  no  option  but 
to  banish  the  lad  to  Lanai  where  he  could  have  the  congenial 
company  of  goblins  and  ogres,  and  could  exercise  his  great 
strength  in  righting  out  his  own  salvation  with  them  in- 
stead of  using  it  in  pulling  fruitful  trees  from  the  ground. 

Kaululaau  was  accordingly  taken  over  to  Lanai  on  one 
of  his  father's  double  war  canoes  and  landed  at  Kahalapalaoa. 
Such  was  the  detestation  and  horror  in  which  he  was  held, 
on  account  of  the  wanton  destruction  of  what  meant  life  to 
many  people,  that  not  a  servant  or  retainer  would  volunteer 
to  share  his  exile  and  danger,  contrary  to  the  well-known 

57 


and  customary  fidelity  of  Hawaiian  nurses,  or  kahus,  to  their 
chiefs  and  nurslings. 

It  would  take  too  much  space  to  recount  in  detail  the 
many  battles  waged  by  him  with  the  demons,  but  suffice  to 
say  he  came  out  victorious  in  all  and  finally  exterminated  or 
reduced  to  servitude  all  the  goblins  and  other  inhabitants  of 
the  island. 

When  he  had  reduced  the  last  goblin  or  demon  to  sub- 
jection he  set  them  to  building  a  stone  wall  to  enclose  a  fish- 
pond for  him,  and  to  clearing  and  planting  patches  of  pota- 
toes along  the  sea  beach,  and  of  upland  taro  in  the  mountain 
ravines,  as  he  had  become  tired  of  living  exclusively  on  noni 
and  fish. 

The  goblins  having  either  disappeared  or  become  subject 
to  Kaululaau,  fishermen  from  Maui,  Molokai  and  Oahu,  who 
frequented  the  famous  fishing  banks  of  Ka-pali-a-ka-holo  to 
leeward  of  Lanai,  came  ashore,  were  made  welcome  by  Kau- 
lulaau and  given  potatoes,  taro,  sugar  cane  and  bananas  in 
return  for  such  fish  as  he  needed. 

The  news  of  his  success  in  subjecting  the  supernatural 
inhabitants  of  the  heretofore  dreaded  island  and  of  his  gen- 
erosity to  fishermen  quickly  spread  through  the  islands,  and 
on  invitation,  many  fishermen  brought  their  families  with 
them  and  located  permanently  on  Lanai,  swearing  fealty  to 
Kaululaau  as  their  prince. 

Tradition  has  it  that  he  made  a  wise  and  generous  ruler, 
greatly  beloved  by  his  subjects. 

Kakaalaneo  was  the  last  to  hear  of  the  success  and  re- 
formation of  his  wayward  son,  and  as  soon  as  he  did,  yield- 
ing to  the  entreaties  of  his  queen,  Kanikaniaula,  they  sailed 
to  Lanai  to  pay  him  a  visit.  He  received  his  parents  with 
every  mark  of  humility  and  affection,  offering  the  redeemed 
island  of  Lanai  as  his  indemnity  to  the  Maui  king  and  people 
for  the  uprooted  ulu  trees. 

Lanai  from  that  time  became  an  appanage  of  Maui.  Kau- 
lulaau took  his  place  as  if  a  younger  prince  royal,  and  stead- 
ily refused  to  return  to  Maui,  or  to  take  the  sovereignty  of 
the  islands  at  the  death  of  his  father. 

58 


DEFEAT    OF   THE  ALAPA. 


feathers, 


AILUKU  was,  in  1776,  during  the  reign  of  Kahe- 
kili  as  king  of  Maui,  invaded  by  Kalaniopuu, 
king  of  Hawaii  and  brother-in-law  of  Kahekili. 
The  Hawaii  regiment,  called  Alapa,  every 
member  of  which  was  from  the  highest  aristoc- 
racy of  Hawaii,  wearing  their  helmets,  short 
capes  and  girdles  of  yellow,  red  and  black 

were    sent    by    the    Hawaii    king    to    take    Wai- 


luku,  and,  as  they  facetiously  expressed  it  themselves,   "to 


drink  of  the  waters  of  lao,"  the  beautiful  stream  that  flows 
through  Wailuku. 

They  were  met  and  literally  annihilated  by  the  Maui 
forces  under  their  celebrated  warrior  king,  Kahekili,  who,  to 
the  knowledge  of  the  writer,  always  has  been  claimed  by  the 
later  Kamehamehas  as  the  own  father  of  Kamehameha  the 

59 


Great.  So  complete  was  the  destruction  of  this  famous  regi- 
ment of  the  Alapa,  which  was  considered  the  bravest  and 
best,  as  well  as  the  flower  of  the  Hawaiian  warriors,  that 
only  two  out  of  eight  hundred  escaped,  and  these  two,  cov- 
ered with  wounds,  were  ordered  spared  by  Kahekili  himself, 
to  be,  as  he  ironically  expressed  himself,  "ahailonos"  (tale- 
bearers) to  the  Hawaii  king  of  the  fortunes  of  the  day.  This 
battle  is  called  the  "Ahulau  ka  piipii  i  Kanikanilua." 

In  1790  Kamehameha,  nephew  of  Kalaniopuu,  and  who 
had  in  the  meantime  become  king  of  Hawaii,  invaded  Wai- 
luku  for  the  purpose  of  avenging  the  fate  of  the  brave  .Alapa. 

The  fight  commenced  at  Wailuku  and  extended  up  the 
valley  of  lao.  It  was  fully  as  sanguinary  a  fight  as  had  been 
the  former  one  of  the  Alapas,  but  this  time  a  master  mind 
planned  and  directed  the  moves  in  the  battle  for  the  Ha- 
waiians,  and  the  wise  and  experienced,  but  aged,  Kahekili 
was  abs.ent  on  Oahu,  and  victory  rested  with  the  Hawaiians. 
The  Maui  troops  were  completely  annihilated,  and  the 
corpses  of  the  slain  were  so  many  as  to  choke  up  and  dam 
the  waters  of  lao,  and  thus  the  battle  is  known  in  history  as 
that  of  "Ke  pani  wai"  (The  dammed  waters).  And  beautiful 
lao  Valley  has  since  been  known  by  the  title  of  "Ke-pani- 
wai,"  and  is  thus  always  referred  to  in  song  or  story. 

Lahaina  was  formerly  the  only  seaport  of  the  island  of 
Maui  where  vessels  of  foreign  build  could  lay  or  enter.  In 
the  forties  and  fifties  it  had  a  considerable  trade  with  whalers, 
and  at  one  time  was  the  royal  residence  and  center  of  gov- 
ernment, and  consequently  the  capital  of  the  kingdom.  It 
was  here  that  the  first  Hawaiian  Constitution  was  framed 
and  constitutional  government  proclaimed  in  these  islands. 

Kauiki,  in  Hana,  East  Maui,  was  a  famous  fort  of  the 
olden  time,  and  was  always  a  bone  of  contention  between  the 
Maui  kings  and  those  of  Hawaii.  When  Kamehameha  Nui 
was  king  of  Maui,  Kalaniopuu  captured  this  fort,  and  it  was 
held  as  an  appanage  by  the  king  of  Hawaii  from  1759  till 
about  1781  or  1782.  It  was  recaptured  by  Kahekili,  the 
younger  brother  and  successor  of  Kamehameha  Nui,  the  king 
of  Maui. 


KAMEHAMEHA'S    L.AST    HEIAU 

AWAIHAE,  on  the  west  and  leeward  side  of  the 
island  of  Hawaii,  was  in  the  olden  times,  and  as 
late  as  thirty  years  ago,  a  place  of  considerably 
more  importance  than  at  present.    It  was  in  those 
days  one  of  the  principal  seaports  of  the  island, 
and  is  famous  in  history  as  the  place  where  the 
last  heiau,  or  temple  to  the  Hawaiian  god,  was 
built  by  Kamehameha  the  Great.     It  was  to  the  consecration 
of  this  heiau  that  his  cousin,  Keoua-ku-ahuula,  the  independ- 


CAPT.   COOK    DIED. 


ent  prince  or  chief  of  Kau  and  South  Kona,  was  coming  on 
Kamehameha's  invitation,  when  he  was  treacherously  set  upon 
and  murdered  by  the  chiefs  of  Kamehameha,  with  the  latter's 
connivance  and  approval.  The  body  of  the  unfortunate  prince 

61 


was  the  first  offering  made  by  Kamehameha  himself  at  the 
opening  and  dedication  of  the  heiau  to  his  war-god,  Ku-kaili- 
moku. 

The  writer  possessed  a  piece  of  wood  from  this  cele- 
brated war-god  a  few  years  ago,  but  one  of  her  children 
falling  very  ill  with  typhoid  fever,  the  family  servants  and 
retainers  would  have  it  that  the  illness  was  caused  by  the 
presence  of  this  piece  of  the  god,  and  one  old  lady  who  had 
long  been  the  custodian  of  the  same  for  the  family,  risked 
her  life,  in  her  own  estimation,  to  save  that  of  her  young 
chief.  While  the  writer  slept,  after  watching,  the  other 
retainers  were  ordered  to  build  a  large  bonfire,  and  when  it 
was  blazing  merrily  the  piece  of  the  god  was  thrown  into  the 
fire,  where  of  course  it  was  consumed.  The  boy — the  present 
Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives — recovered  when  at 
almost  the  point  of  death,  but  two  months  afterwards  the 
faithful  old  retainer  was  seized  with  paralysis  and  died  within 
three  days.  After  the  attack,  and  while  still  retaining  in  a 
measure  the  power  of  speech,  she  told  those  surrounding  her 
she  knew  her  sickness  was  the  punishment  of  her  crime  in 
destroying  the  last  known  piece  of  the  god,  which  had  been 
confided  to  her  care  for  the  writer  by  her  hakus,  the  writer's 
ancestors;  but  that  she  was  content  to  die,  as  thereby  she 
had  saved  her  young  alii's  life.  She  was  but  a  type  of  the 
real  old  kahus  of  former  days — the  genuine  ones — not  those 
who  had  attached  themselves  only  for  the  food,  clothing  or 
pleasures  to  be  experienced  at  what  they  call  "ke  alo  o  na 
alii"  ("in  the  presence  of  the  chiefs"). 

Kailua,  the  next  seaport  south  of  Kawaihae,  was  a  favor- 
ite royal  residence  under  the  Kamehamehas. 

The  large  stone  walls  that  enclosed  the  residence  of  Ka- 
mehameha the  Great,  where  he  died,  and  which  is  called  Ka- 
makahonu,  were  still  to  be  seen  three  years  ago,  although 
most  of  the  stones  from  the  mauka  or  landward  side  had 
been  carted  away,  evidently  for  the  making  of  piers  or  but- 
tresses for  the  wharf  that  extends  in  front  and  parallel  to 
what  was  the  entrance  and  altar  to  the  temple  for  family  de- 
votions in  the  royal  enclosure. 

62 


»T.    COOK 


KKAL.AKAKUA   BAY:  CAPT.  COOK. 

k£^  HIS  bay  is  famous  as  the  place  visited  by  Captain 
Cook,  the  discoverer  of  these  islands,  and  it  was 
also  the  scene  of  his  death  at  the  hands  of  an 
outraged  people. 

The  British  government  some  years  ago  erect- 
ed a  monument  to  his  memory  on  the  spot 
where  he  fell. 

The  Hawaiian  people,  as  a  whole,  never  felt  particularly 
grateful  to  Captain  Cook  for  discovering  them  to  the  Eu- 
ropean civilized  world,  nor  do  they  hold  his  memory  in  any 
very  great  esteem. 

The  famous  Hale-o-Keawe  was  situated  further  down  on 
the  coast,  but  was  destroyed  long  ago  on  the  Queen  Dow- 
ager Kaahumanu  and  her  alleged  stepson,  the  second  Ka- 
mehameha,  adopting  Christianity.  Hale-o-Keawe  is  the  an- 
cient house  of  the  gods. 


OVERLOOKI  MO  KEAUAKAKUA   BAY 


19— Nuuanu    Valley     .  . .  ..I.    D.    Jo\v«-tt. 


L.IST  .OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE.          SUBJECT.  DESIGNER.  PHOTOGRAPHER. 

8 — Grnss   House,    Native    Family Marti  ton    Campbell. 

0 — Hat    Making    Alonzo    Giirtlcy. 

11 — Portraits,   Hawailans J.     D.    .Tewett..      .  .)„ 

Various    Photographers 
12 — Portraits,  Hawaiian*. ...  JT.    D.    Ji.-wett i 

13 — Launching  a  Canoe Alon/o   Gartley 

15— Walklki    Scenes    Julian   Greemvell Rice    &    Perkins. 

16 — Hawaiian    Women    A.   Lewis,   Jr. 

17— Nuuanu    Pali     A.  Gaitley. 

A.   Gartley,  Frank  Pnvey, 
Hono.    Photo   Supply  Co. 

20 — Waialae    Bay    A.  Gartlev. 

21 — Ironwood    Ave Hono.  Photo.  Supply  Co. 

22— Halenkala  Crater Hono.  Photo.  Supply  Co. 

23 — Watplo    Valley    Marston    Campbell. 

24 — Hanapepe    Valley     Marston    Campbell. 

25 — Hawaiian    Concert    Club 

26— Wailua   River    Hono.   Photo.   Supply  Co. 

27 — Makawell    Canyon     A.     R.    Gurrey,    ,Tr A.   Gartley. 

29— Fishermen   with    Net    Thos.    Sharp    A.   Gartley. 

31  —Pearl    Harbor    .' A.   Gartley. 

32— Kilauea    Crater C.    H.    Men-lam. 

33 — Mokuaweoweo   Crater A.   Gartley. 

35 — Haena    Cave    W.   H.   Deverfll. 

36— Nualolo    Cliff,    Kauai W.   II.    Deverill. 

39 — Fisherman    with    Spear... A.   R.   Gurrey,  Jr ....A.   Gartley. 

41 — Cocoanuts   A.   Gartley. 

43— Manoa    Valley    Thomas    Sharp A.   Gartley. 

45 — KapiolanI    Park     Rice  &  Perkins. 

46— Kahuku    Coast    Hono.    PJioto  Supply   Co. 

47— Kaliuwaa    Dr.  J.  S.  B.  Pratt. 

49 — Scenes    in    Hawaii Amateur   Shots. 

51 — Waialua    River    Frank  Davey. 

52 — Waianae    Coast    Hono.    Photo  Supply   Co. 

53— Aged    Hawaiian    A.    Lewis,   Jr. 

55 — Climbing  Cocoannt  Tree    : A .   Gartley. 

57 — Lanai    Julian   Green  well. ..  .A.   Gnrtley,   C.  Connult. 

59— lao   Valley    J.    J.    Williams. 

61— Heiaus    .- J.  J.   Williams,    A.   Gartley. 

63— Cook's    Monument    : .A.  Gartley. 

Cover  by  A.   R.  Gurrey,  Jr.  Initials   by   Thomas   Sharp. 


Gazette,    Honolulu. 


737639    5 


